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 |  | Lift 
          off
 While 
          we continue to search for an original Newgren lift pump, we made a strategic 
          decision to find an alternative so we could make the lift operational. 
          We have collected three different pump configurations. The first is 
          the HY-LO pump normally used with a snow plow. It has its own control 
          valve and reservoir. Since we wanted to use the control valve on the 
          Newgren, this wasn’t going to be our first choice, although it 
          is still a “possible” solution.
 
 Pump number 
          two, a Jack-LO is basically the HY-LO pump. This one arrived with a 
          strange mounting bracket that won’t fit anywhere on the L-head. 
          This one also remains a good “possible” solution with the 
          addition of a fabricated mount.
 
 The third 
          option came in the form of a 12 volt electric pump with attached reservoir, 
          but no control. While not true to the original design, later model Newgren 
          lifts either came with or were retrofitted with electric pumps and controls. 
          This option appeared to be the most straight-forward approach.
 
 
 Plumb 
          tickled
 The 
          first order of business was to plumb the lift to make sure it would 
          work with the pump. Since the pump placement is going to be different 
          for our three choices, we are starting with off-the-shelf parts from 
          the local hardware and farm supply stores. This simple act resulted 
          in no less than four hardware store runs and two farm store runs spread 
          over two weekends. The hardware store is 20 minutes away and the farm 
          store is 45 minutes away. The resulting “temporary” configuration 
          is a jumble of “parts.”
 
 We had mounted 
          the lift (see part 10) temporarily and hadn’t been able to get 
          it in the correct position. So Barry decided to remove the lift, lowering 
          it enough to allow for easy access to the control valve and various 
          hoses. It took Barry about an hour to slowly lower the lift.
 
 Start'er 
          up
 The 
          next task was to remove the old hardware from the pump and ensure it 
          was in working order. The old hardware came off without a problem. Next 
          was a quick electrical test. The motor is marked 12v and has a solenoid 
          for on/off control. Barry attached jumper cables to the terminals and 
          shorted the solenoid top control terminal to the positive cable. Nothing. 
          He then shorted the positive terminal to the motor terminal and it sprung 
          to life! Good news. Replace the solenoid and we should be set.
 
 Luckily the 
          chief mechanics were available to review the project. Barry’s 
          dad suggested that the solenoid might be switched on the ground side. 
          A quick test and it worked perfectly! Saved once again from replacing 
          a perfectly good part.
 
 
 5-4-3-2-1
 Barry added a toggle switch across the solenoid and the ground terminal. 
          When mounted in the jeep, we will place the switch on the dash and only 
          use the pump when needed. After attaching the hoses, and filling both 
          reservoirs as best he could, he throw the switch. LIFT OFF.
 
 Well, actually, 
          the cylinder did extend without anyone moving the control valve. It 
          must have been stuck in the open position. Barry quickly turned off 
          the pump and was able to move the valve to the “down” position 
          and retract the cylinder by hand. He flipped the switch again and nothing 
          happened. Perfect! He moved the control valve and the cylinder extended. 
          Moved it to the down position and, applying a little weight, the cylinder 
          arms went down. After the fourth or fifth cycle, the cylinder seemed 
          to slow. More testing needed, but the weekend had ended.
 
 
 Like a glove
 Not 
          having the Willys available for rides and work was enough of a motivator 
          for Barry to get the lift back on. He was able to use a combination 
          of jacks and wood blocks to get the lift in place. He had installed 
          an elbow on a hose that he thought was preventing the lift from lining 
          up correctly. It quickly became clear that the hose was fine and something 
          else was preventing the rear of the lift from moving into the proper 
          position. What the eye couldn’t see, the hand could feel. A muffler 
          hanger bracket was still attached to the middle of the frame. The perfectly 
          matching rust of the frame and bracket made it almost invisible.
 
 A couple of busted bolts later, the lift slipped into place. There was 
          still the matter of the bent bumper and a pry bar between the side rail 
          and lift was required to get a bolt inserted. Tightening the bolt drew 
          the passenger side into perfect alignment.
 
 
 Weighing 
          in
 While 
          on jacks, the lift had appeared to operate normally. With the lift attached 
          to the frame, we were ready to do a real test. With Barry (weight not 
          revealed, but plenty for testing purposes) standing on the short arms, 
          Paula worked the rear controls. Barry had a quick trip up – a 
          great feeling. However, if the control was returned to the neutral position, 
          the lift dropped. Fluid appears to be leaking past the control valve. 
          Bummer. It looks like a rebuild of the control valve will be needed. 
          That means dropping the lift again. For now, on the advice of the chief 
          mechanics, we will continue to operate the lift and see if the seals 
          might swell enough to “heal” the leaking problem.
 
 
 Like 
          a glove – part II
 Ron Ingram’s CJ3B has the reservoir mounted in front of the battery 
          (http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Photos/Farm/IngramEngine.jpg). 
          It appeared there is plenty of room for our pump there too. A quick 
          measurement verifies that the pump should fit nicely. All that is required 
          is to remove the starter switch and voltage regulator from the fender, 
          along with removing the battery. The pump is heavy, about 30 pounds 
          and will need to be securely fastened. The generator splash shield, 
          while not supported on the engine side, makes a nice shelf. There also 
          appeared to be a tie-in point near the motor mount; a pre-existing hole 
          in the splash shield right at the motor mount aligns perfectly with 
          the pump base. For now, that single bolt seems enough to prevent any 
          movement. When we replace the body we will fabricate a more secure mount 
          bracket.
 
 The location made wiring a breeze. Short starter cables were run to 
          the chassis ground bolt and to the hot side of the starter switch. The 
          on/off switch was mounted in one of the radio knob holes for now. A 
          quick test and everything is working great! We had considered adding 
          a light to indicate the lift pump was running (to prevent running down 
          the battery). The pump is actually quite loud, even audible when the 
          engine is running, so that won’t be necessary.
 
 Next up, making the implement arms and installing the driver compartment 
          controls.
 
  Barry's notes:
 
 Evan's notes:
 
 
 
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